Wednesday, September 19, 2007

Jump in the Time Machine and go back . . .

Dyson and Susan Demara giving tastings at their HillCrest vineyard and Winery

For those of us old enough to remember the Napa and Sonoma valleys of decades ago, we can recall small vinyards and wineries where you could occasionally meet the owners, or better the winemakers, and the tastings and the conversations were both free and worthwhile. We discovered a bit of that today while driving through the Umpqua valleys near Roseburg, Oregon and wine tasting.

Here the landscape is highly reminiscent of Napa and Sonoma, but there is a marked lack of commercialism. It is refreshing as well as nostalgic. It seems that the climate is similar to Napa and Sonoma, with 2-3 inches more rain, and a harvest that takes place several weeks later.

Perhaps the quintessential Umpqua Vally winery is HillCrest, a small operation that somehow Dyson and Susan Demara manage themselves with occasional help from friends and family (and the local Brownie girl scout troop). They "allow" local children to assist in the "stomping" or foot crushing of some of the grapes in the fall. It seems that these small people are big enough to separate the skins and seeds, but not heavy enough to crush the seeds that have fallen to the bottom of the vat and let undesirable elements enter the juice. The children have fun, and some great wine can be produced.

We had a wonderful tasting here. Dyson and Susan are obviously a happy couple (along with the kids and dogs), and bring this attitude to their wines. They have Napa Valley as well as more world wide experiences, and left Napa a few years ago to create their own crafted wines. Dyson talks enthusiastically about the environment, the wine making process, and other elements that produce their wines (sold locally; no distributor). The process is "old world family technique", with none of the substances that may be "organic", but are not really naturally occurring, that are tossed into 99% of retail wines. I found their tasting offerings were good to superb, with a fine Syrah and an incredible late harvest Riesling.

This is what the Napa and Sonoma valleys were decades ago; open wineries (not just tasting buildings), accessibility to the owners and winemakers, and a distinct lack of a Disneyland commercial feeling to the area. If you are traveling I-5 through Oregon, be sure to stop in the Umpqua Valley for a winery detour. If you have time for only one stop, I strongly urge you to make it HillCrest. Say "Hi" to Dyson and Susan for us if you make it.

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